Travel Tip: Miami Beach Dining


The southern tip of Miami Beach is an international playground for vacationers from across the globe, and visitors from the Caribbean and Latin America—not to mention Spain, Italy and Asia—fill the streets and shops. The dining scene in Miami is diverse and ever-evolving, a blend of internationally recognized names and homegrown talent, running the gamut from high-end fine dining to expert takes on fried chicken and other comfort classics. The following restaurants are some of the best of Miami Beach's offerings.
CASA TUA
1700 James Ave.
Telephone: (305) 673-1010
Website: www.casatualifestyle.com
Open: Dinner, Monday to Saturday
Cost: Entrées $22-$46
Corkage: Outside bottles not permitted
Credit cards: All major
Best of Award of Excellence
It's not easy to find this Italian restaurant, hidden behind a garden wall just a few blocks from the crowds on Lincoln Road. But diners who step through the gate with the tiny sign will find themselves in an oasis. Housed in a 1925 mansion-turned-hotel, Casa Tua feels like an upscale Italian country restaurant, with Mediterranean-style rooms and a garden of old trees bedecked with lanterns and air plants.
The cuisine is refined Italian, with plenty of local seafood. It's not cutting edge, just well done. Zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta and speck are lightly fried, while the pappardelle with lamb ragù and pistachios is deeply flavorful. Seared branzino paired with asparagus, roasted tomatoes and mushrooms is earthy and rich. The wine list, a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner, is packed with the stars of Italy, from Domenico Clerico to Fattoria di Felsina. And then there's the reserve list. But you can also find affordable discoveries such as Occhipinti SP68 2010 ($62), a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato from Sicily.


THE DUTCH
W South Beach Hotel & Residences, 2201 Collins Ave.
Telephone: (305) 938-3111
Website: www.thedutchmiami.com
Open: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $22-$42 Corkage $45
Credit cards: All major
Opening a restaurant in Miami was a no-brainer for New York chef Andrew Carmellini: His father grew up in Miami, and he still has family in the area. But while Carmellini initially thought he would export his Italian food south, the W South Beach Hotel asked instead for the Dutch, his more casual, "roots-inspired" American eatery.
The Dutch adds a nice touch of casual comfort to the sleek hotel, with its white-brick walls, industrial-style lighting and shelves full of pickle jars. The menu is also comfortable, but with smart flourishes. Octopus à la barça features slow-cooked legs seasoned with spicy paprika and roasted peppers. Even tastier is a grouper sandwich on the lunch menu, boasting a hefty piece of fillet and smoky aioli. The wine list shows good depth, and decent pricing for a South Beach hotel. Inama Soave Classico 2009 ($40) goes nicely with the seafood options, and a vertical of Château Beaucastel does well on its own.


1500 DEGREES
Eden Roc Renaissance Hotel, 4525 Collins Ave.
Telephone: (305) 674-5594
Website: www.1500degreesmiami.com
Open: Breakfast and dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $22-$54; tasting menu $85
Corkage: $25
Credit cards: All major
Anchoring the renovated Eden Roc hotel, the Fontainebleau's next-door rival, 1500 Degrees restaurant is not quite sure what category it's in. Farm-to-table cuisine? Steak house? Define it as you will, what matters is that chef Paula DaSilva's cooking is delicious; just 32 years old, the Brazilian-American is proving a promising chef.
Her upscale, comfort-food dishes, such as the roasted half-chicken, cheddar biscuits and the warm skillet of white-bean cassoulet, are buoyed by fresh ingredients. If you've packed a bigger appetite, there are plenty of steaks to choose from, including a Florida-raised, grass-fed Wagyu rib eye. The wine list is focused on the steak options, including a lengthy selection of California Cabernets and Bordeaux.


HAKKASAN
Fontainebleau Miami Beach, 4441 Collins Ave.
Telephone: (786) 276-1388
Website: www.fontainebleu.com
Open: Dinner, daily; dim sum lunch, Saturday and Sunday
Cost: Large plates $16-$48
Corkage: $35
Credit cards: All major
Established in London in 2001, Hakkasan chose Miami for its first U.S. location (a New York outpost opened this year). It is the Fontainebleau's most striking restaurant, with an interior of dark wood and blue frosted glass. But the big space is divided into a somewhat confusing labyrinth of sections that can leave you feeling like you're dining in a side room. The cuisine, based on Cantonese cooking, is also striking and a bit intimidating. It's best to bring several friends and ask your server to guide you through ordering a series of variously sized plates. The dim sum platter, full of dumplings, shouldn't be missed, and jasmine tea-smoked ribs and several duck dishes are also highlights.
Fontainebleau beverage director David Mokha and his team built their list by tasting what would go with the variety of flavors on offer. Try Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV ($150) or Rafael Palacios Godello As Sortes 2010 ($95).


JOE'S STONE CRAB
11 Washington Ave.
Telephone: (305) 673-0365
Website: www.joesstonecrab.com
Open: Lunch, Tuesday to Saturday; dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $6-$54
Corkage: $25
Credit cards: All major
Not many things have history in Miami, but Joe's does—almost 100 years' worth. It still serves fresh stone crab claws, paired with classic sides like creamed spinach and mashed potatoes. If you're not in the mood for stone crab, the steak and roast chicken are also excellent. The Key lime pie is a must. It can take forever to get into the restaurant, but once you're seated, the waiters are attentive to your needs. The seasonal lunch is an easier process, and it's not unusual to see Miami's leading politicians and business figures at nearby tables. The wine list is lengthy, and while there's nothing revolutionary, it shows plenty of depth.


JUVIA
1111 Lincoln Road
Telephone: (305) 763-8272
Website: www.juviamiami.com
Open: Lunch and dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $24-$45
Corkage: $50
Credit cards: All major
Walking into Juvia, you may need to pause and get oriented. Everything is white, and you appear to be hovering above the city. It's not the pearly gates, but a terrace that enjoys one of the best views of the beach. Perched atop the city's most famous parking garage, designed by architects at Herzog & de Meuron, Juvia offers modernist Asian food with Peruvian touches, some of it as lovely as the view. Milk-fed pork confit with kimchi slaw is a great mix of rich fat and tangy acidity. Korean barbecue ribs are a flavorful blast. Other dishes work less well; cold-smoked sea scallop crudo over apple wood bacon is tasty, but overpowered by a spicy Bloody Mary espuma.
The wine list is somewhat Jekyll-and-Hyde. If you want spectacular Champagne or Bordeaux, you're in good hands: The list includes Krug 1998 ($700) and Château Margaux 1999 ($1,980). Most of the selections for less than $100, however, are either mundane or come with a hefty markup.


PUBBELLY
1418 20th St.
Telephone: (305) 532-7555
Website: www.pubbelly.com
Open: Dinner, Tuesday to Sunday
Cost: Small plates $6-$29
Corkage: $25
Credit cards: All major
In 2010, three chefs who had met while working in Casa Tua's kitchen decided to open something South Beach had never seen: an ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Located in the sleepy northwest corner of South Beach, Pubbelly is a blend of New York's Momofuku and the Spotted Pig, with a touch of Puerto Rico. It's a friendly spot, filled with locals who crowd the bar and the butcher-block tables for a variety of small plates. Pig is king here, so try the McBelly, a pork belly slider with kimchi and pickles. Heirloom tomatoes come with an incredibly fresh and creamy tofu, with amazu ponzu. Brussels sprouts are seasoned with a bacon miso and sea salt. The wine list is short and eclectic, but has well-thought-out gems such as August Kesseler Riesling Kabinett Rheingau 2009 ($31) and Vall Llach Priorat Embruix 2007 ($60). If you'd prefer a beer with your pork fat, there's a lengthy list of options, including Saison Dupont ($22).


SCARPETTA
Fontainebleau Miami Beach, 4441 Collins Ave.
Telephone: (877) 326-7412
Website: www.fontainbleau.com
Open: Dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $24-$60
Corkage: $30
Credit cards: All major
Scott Conant launched this outpost of his New York hot spot in 2008, when the Fontainebleau reopened. The Italian cuisine is some of the best in Miami. Steak tartare with a quail egg and crispy shiitake is clean and fresh, with each ingredient standing out. Fresh burrata with heirloom tomatoes is also simple and lovely. The pastas are perfectly made, from spicy spaghetti peperoncino to chewy pici with lobster and bottarga. This is rich, modern, satisfying Italian food. The wine list is also impressive, from a magnum of Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2003 ($1,200) to Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 1998 ($315). If you're looking for something new, try Foradori Teroldego Granato 2009 ($120). There are also plenty of French, Spanish and American selections.


YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR
1600 Lenox Ave.
Telephone: (305) 538-5220
Website: www.runchickenrun.com
Open: Lunch and dinner, daily
Cost: Entrées $17-$39
Corkage: $25
Credit cards: All major
Yardbird isn't the first restaurant to do an upscale take on Southern comfort food. The brick walls, wood beams and cutesy signs will feel familiar (although the pictures of musicians such as Johnny Cash and John Lee Hooker projected on a wall are a nice touch). But nobody else makes a fried chicken sandwich that's as tasty. The batter is spicy and just thick enough, and the flesh inside is perfectly moist. Wrapped in a perfect biscuit with a touch of sweet-and-spicy pepper jelly, this can't fail to bring a smile to your face.
The rest of the food is also outstanding, from fresh green tomatoes with farm cheese, arugula and watermelon to the housemade charcuterie. Housemade recipes are a source of pride here and include the coleslaw, pickles and mustards. The wine list is only one page but is packed with about 70 smart, all-American choices, such as Gruet Sparkling Rosé NV from New Mexico ($39 and made for fried chicken, according to the menu) and Copain Syrah Anderson Valley Tous Ensemble 2009 ($45). There's also a great selection of whiskeys; try the Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 20 Year Old ($33 a glass).

http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/47787

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